Sunday, October 31, 2010

Graffiti Blog!

Graffiti is everywhere, and I'm not just talking about here in San Cristobal. I mean everywhere, and what gets defined as graffiti is subjective. Here is an example of what I would consider typical graffiti.


Just names in a stylized fashion declaring that someone or some group has been present in the vicinity at some point in time. Yet there is so much more that can be done with this type of "vandalism."


San Cristobal has been described as once being a sleepy Mexican town until the 1994 Zapatista uprising. Now San Cristobal is a beacon for anyone who is interested in opposing oppressors, speaking out, and cultural pride among other things. Now with this frame of mind present here there have been artists who have utilized graffiti as a means to convey messages, have a look.

























These are just a few of the images Faith and I see on a daily stroll to the market, shops, or a local taco stand. We actually enjoy them and it makes our walks a lot more interesting than if they weren't there. I guess, what I'm trying to point out is that not all graffiti has to have negative connotations, especially since the concept has been around before we had a written language. Also, where do we draw the line between mural, painting, graffiti and art? It's always been about spreading information.
(picture of 4,000 year old petroglyph at Valley of Fire National Park Nevada)

Thursday, October 28, 2010

It's officially Halloween time at Casa de Young!

We decided to get festive while in Chiapas, Mexico. We have been noticing Day of the Dead decorations being put up here and there throughout the city and felt like bringing some of our holiday spirit to life. We went out and bought a 30 peso calabaza and carved into it, turning it into a good ol' fashioned jack-o-lantern.


We have already had a group of about four neighborhood children come by and get excited about it. We left the fully intact pumpkin in our "bay window" all day today before we cut it and we heard some kids trying to squeeze it out between our bars. The kids tonight were saying things like, "Look! I told you they were going to carve it open and put a candle in it!"















We suspect a potential link between the two instances, but we'll let it slide.



Wednesday, October 27, 2010

We're getting a move on!

The rent for our apartment is going to be due in a few days and we decided to expand our horizons and look into other options for a place to live. We did a quick search online and found a placed called Villas Teshana. We were very impressed by the pictures so we contacted them and met about an hour later. We had no idea what we were missing! We currently pay $300 US a month for our apartment (we thought we were getting a steal), until we found Villas Teshana. For $60 more a month we no longer have to deal with...........

Sock pot holdersBroken bed frames (check out that Bedrock!)Bandana coffee filter

The new place we're moving to is bigger, cleaner, and is in a better part of town (closer to the shops). They provide: a microwave, coffeemaker, blender, toaster, iron, couch, dining room table with four chairs, they wash your sheets and clean your place every eight days, there is a laundry service on the premises, 24 hour security, and the trash is taken out by them, not by me at 6:30 a.m. We currently have to do "set changes" between eating times and internet times because we only have a small wooden table with two chairs, we put our laptops and everything on the bed when we eat. When we came back from the Mayan Medicine museum my nice shoes had a layer of mold growing on them. Hopefully our new place is as awesome as it looks, see for yourself.


Now its time for us to be "Movin' on up!"

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Interesting things we've seen and forgot to mention


    So, we've been here for three weeks now and feel like there have been a few things we might have forgotten to add in or it just didn't fit with the narrative. So, here are some of the interesting things we've experienced that we didn't mention in our previous entries.



    • We have a new favorite song. This song is ALWAYS being played in the market as we walk by the vendors who sell CDs, they pump this song nonstop all day every day out of their PA systems and we're not sick of it yet. It is called "We no speak Americano" by Yolanda Be Cool.

    • Red lights outside of homes means they have tamales for sale and there is one rule tamales are only sold on Saturday's.

    • We were approached by a sad dog and partially blind cat, they turned down the cheese and milk we offered, all they wanted was love and to be petted.

    • We saw an indigenous family outside of a small open shop watching Apocalypto on the television there (We're curious as to what they're opinion of Mel Gibson's portrayal of the Maya history might be).

    • Mike made a didgeridoo from bamboo cut from the bamboo forest at the house where we did the sweat lodge ceremony. It sounds pretty sweet.



    • There was a free play in town in a nice concert hall auditorium with musicians and dancers depicting traditional music and dance from different states of Mexico.

    • We purchased medicine from the Mayan Medicine Museum, Faith's currently taking the one for her cold, fever, and cough (leaves used to make a tea). We also bought traditional medicine for diarrhea, because it WILL happen (a liquid you take in drops).

    • There is a taco shop here that sells pastor (pork) tacos 2x1 for 7 pesos. About 25 cents each, and they're good sized, loaded with meat. :)

    • I introduced Faith to the gambling machines where you pick an icon, and a light randomly goes around a square with about 15 or so different icons and eventually lands on one, each icon is worth different amounts depending on how many are on the square. We won 20 pesos first try (almost 2 bucks!).

    • Faith tried doing our laundry by hand once, very difficult. We have since taken our laundry to a "lavanderia" where you hand your dirty clothes to a person who weighs them, charges you by the kilo, and it's ready the same day by 4:00 p.m. folded nicely and even with the socks paired up. It's about 12 pesos a kilo (50 cents a pound).


    • Trash pickup for our apartment is done twice a week (Mondays and Thurs) at 6:30 am. A big trash truck comes by, rings a bell, waits maybe 5 minutes for people to come out running to hand them their trash.

    • Faith and I, with our volunteer group, made a presentation on volunteerism at the local college UNICH, a tuition free university dedicated to educating the indigenous youth of the area. The books are also at a very low cost. One of the requirements to graduating is becoming proficient in one of the five indigenous languages they teach (Chol, Tojolabal, Tzotzil, Tzeltal, Zoque).

    • We have seen turf wars among the dogs in the marketplace, possible pack formation.


    • This dog's name is Michael.

    • A taxi ride anywhere in town is 20 pesos (less than 2 dollars). But we've been walking a lot, we're learning how to peso pinch.

    • Included in our rent is purified water, but the catch is Mike has to carry the heavy Sparkletts type bottle about 5 blocks to get it back to the apartment from where they fill it up.

    • They don't have mozzarella here, we've asked for the closest thing to it and have suffered the consequence of eating flavorless cheese that doesn't melt once so far.

    • We have an ice cream man that comes by several times daily, three flavors - lime, coconut, and vanilla. As he was making ours he pulled out a familiar looking red bottle to put on our frozen treat and we fearfully asked "wait, what's that?" (because every vendor here has the same bottle filled with hot sauce that seems to go on everything) and he showed us that his was filled with delicious strawberry syrup, and another one with sprinkles. We were pleasantly surprised.



    • Our barred window doubles as a bay window.

    • Child labor is common here, grocery baggers at the markets, servers at taco stands/small restaurants, salespeople for their handmade crafts, and some sell everything from candy to cigarettes on mobile wooden display boxes.

    Thursday, October 21, 2010

    Chicken, its what's for dinner.

    Mike and I went to the open air market today to buy some chicken. I really wanted to buy some boneless skinless chicken breast, you know the kind we buy at the grocery store all nicely packaged for us? I knew that this chicken buying experience was going to be a bit different but I was ready for it and really wanted to make some Asian cuisine in Mexico. We first arrived at the market and we decided to enter a unfamiliar building thinking we might find some Pollo there. First we walked by some colorful sugar skulls and several other bakery goods. Then we saw some sausage strung from metal hooks and various other meats. We immediately turned down the so-called meat aisle and followed the counters of flesh. We passed by a whole pig head sitting on a counter and by then the smell from everything hit me full on. I looked at Mike and he said, “turn left if you want to get out of here” I was holding my breath, we walked quickly to the door and then we started laughing. Not sure if I will ever go in there again, but at least I know where to get some sausage or pig parts.
    We were back in the open air market and we bought some vegetables and then found the chicken vendors. So far this is the only way I know how to buy chicken and I’m hoping I will eventually get used to it. We walked up to a nice lady who had full chicken carcasses lined up on her counter with their heads dangling off the edge, Mike asked her in Spanish if they sold just the breasts and she nodded yes. So we decided two breasts would be enough and kindly asked her for two. She grabbed one of the many chickens lying there and then grabbed her scissors and started cutting away and dismembering the corpse. I must mention that the lady had to be maybe in her early 20's and the cutting and disjointing of the chicken didn’t bother her one bit. She then threw our breasts into a large scale hanging from the wooden structure that is her chicken stand and gave us our total, 50 pesos, about $4.00. She bagged our chicken and that concluded our search. My story may sound unpleasant or sickening to some but the chicken I will be eating tonight was most likely freshly killed today unlike some of the chicken products you find at the local grocery stores back at home. Now onto cooking it….. Bon Appetit!

    Sunday, October 17, 2010

    Slideshow

    We put together a slideshow of all the things we did during our time at the Mayan Medicine Museum, have a look:

    http://www.vimeo.com/15926803

    Monday, October 11, 2010

    "Cambia todo que te toques, Toque todo que te cambias"


    As we round the bend of our first week here in Mexico we are starting to realize how special of an experience we are having and are going to continue experiencing. It took us some time to get settled and comfortable meeting so many different people, our group, the staff of the museum, the staff of the organization we're working with, etc. Everyone here has an amazing and unique story explaining how they wound up in Chiapas of all places and where they plan on going next. I first encountered this mysterious ability to be so nonchalant about traveling through Latin America last year when my dad and I took a road trip from El Salvador back home to California. We met travelers from all over the world who were spending months in the area with only a backpack and a good attitude. It didn't make sense or seem possible for me to be able to do anything like that, until now.

    Natate is an organization we found randomly online while searching for opportunities of things to do in the Chiapas region. They have several ongoing projects ranging from a week to a year each with a set cost which usually includes all food and living accommodations. We jumped at the chance to work with the Mayan Medicine Museum because we are both very interested in gardening, plants in general, and the connection with nature present here. Natate sets up camps for international volunteers and tries to make each group as diverse as possible. We have volunteers in our group from: Spain, Japan, Belgium, Germany, Austria, France, Mexico, and the United States(us).

    The goal of Natate is to bridge the gap between the volunteer and the projects in Chiapas that are needing of assistance. While at your chosen project you are given the opportunity to go on "field trip" type excursions to other organizations and projects going on in Chiapas, all within the vein of what your project is all about. A spiderweb of options begins to lay itself before you, all you need is the motivation and the time.

    This weekend we were shown examples of the movement here for new ways of conservation and living sustainably. There is a renovated trash collection site which has been turned into a perma-culture demonstration area. According to Wikipedia Perma-culture is an approach to designing human settlements and agricultural systems that mimic the relationships found in natural ecologies. It also includes using refuse and waste more effectively by being harmonious with the environment you are living in. Jaguar de Madera (Wood Jaguar) has structures such as domes, kitchens, animal pens all made of "trash" and natural resources. Bicycles that are deemed undesirable are converted into human powered electricity providers. Adobe structures with glass bottles allowing for sunlight to enter are another example of their creative spirit. A major issue here in Latin America is the wood burning stove and how the smoke is causing individuals respiratory and vision problems. A new stove has been developed that still uses fire wood, but uses an exhaust pipe and the differences in air pressure to push the smoke out of the kitchen and into the open air above. All of these concepts can be seen in use and the services to have them be created in your home are offered by Jaguar de Madera.

    On Saturday Faith and I with our group visited the small town of Teopisca. It is about a forty- five minute drive from San Cristobal where there is an ejido (communally owned land) that is applying these methods to the production of their crops and goods. We met a farmer who uses the urine produced by his pigs as fertilizer after the urine has been fermented for long enough it can be diluted with water allowing for the plants to absorb the nutrients properly. We then hiked up a steep road to an area owned by a couple named Annette and Jose Luis who have converted their land into a sustainable living area. On their property they have: greenhouses, a worm farm, corn field, avocado plantation, water channels for irrigation, waterless latrine, untouched ancient forest they call "bosque magico" (magic forest) that they leave pristine and only use the fallen branches for firewood, and an adobe and wood structure with a kitchen that has a smokeless oven. They have plans of incorporating aquaculture where easy to maintain fish such as tilapia will be farmed there. There is a lot planned and a lot that needs to be done, so there is an example of a future opportunity for us to get involved with something that interests us.

    Sunday we were taken to Tzajala, a small town even further away from San Cristobal- about a two hour drive. There a beautiful piece of land has become a functioning co-op called Ha Omekka which means "Alpha Omega". Here they welcome long stay volunteers to get involved with their lifestyle and experience all that it entails. This small group of families all lend a hand in the different projects they have there such as: beekeeping for honey production, fruit trees used for marmalade, greenhouses, gardens, cornfields, mushroom farming, and arts and crafts for selling. We were hosted by Sylvia and Marzo who have created and designed their habitations to have as little ecological impact as possible allowing the forest to grow freely around all the structures and attempting to make each two-story high to utilize ground space. A strong flowing river runs through their property that has chillingly fresh water murmuring over rocks as low hanging tree branches allows for you to suspend yourself above the water in a tree or balance yourself as you fjord across it.

    It being near the date of Christopher Columbus' discovery of the Americas a ceremony was held at sundown on Sunday. Marzo is a Zoque Maya and conducts sweat lodge ceremonies on the premises. The name given to the sweat lodge here is Temascal, and it is for purification of the body and spirit. We were all invited to partake in the ceremony dedicated to 518 years of cultural resistance and conservation. We faced all four of the cardinal directions and touched the earth all while respecting the meanings behind having all these elements to life. Life is based on four elements: fire, water, air, earth. The corn of the region also comes in four colors each representing a different cardinal direction and element to life. The Temascal was built out of bamboo for support beams, a ring made of a stone wall, and sheets, blankets, canvass, and tarps covered the outside to seal the Temascal making it practically airtight. There were traditional dancers present wearing body paint with symmetrical shapes of Maya type design and headdresses adorning feathers and animal skins. After the performance including drums, maracas and flutes we all entered the Temascal in boy-girl fashion. Outside of the Temascal a large fire pit had been burning for hours with stones inside the fire to be used inside. All twenty- seven of us entered and sat down on the pine needle covered floor with little room to spare. We all entered asking for permission from the leader of the ceremony as we pressed our foreheads against the dirt at the entryway. The refrain used by all when there is an appropriate moment for response or praise is "Aho."

    I was pleasantly surprised at the parallels between this ceremony and one I was lucky enough to be a part of in the Fresno area of California. At the Spring Equinox this year I partook in a sweat lodge ceremony where the structure was made of willow branches and the pit was also in the center of the space. Both ceremonies didn't focus on the person conducting the ceremony, but rather on the individual experience each person will be having connecting them with nature. Respect for all elements of nature and its antiquity was emphasized at both ceremonies. Heated stones from within the fire enter into the sacred space which are said to be the oldest of our ancestors. The space is then sealed shut without any light being able to enter and the purification begins. Water which had plants with medicinal properties soaking in it was poured over the rocks creating hot scented vapor that fills the space. Within the Temascal we brought instruments such as maracas, drums, flutes, and our voices which were used to create a unifying sound all while experiencing the intense heat. The Temascal was opened four times to release the heated vapor and to allow more ancient stones to enter. Anyone who would like to leave during the ceremony is allowed to by completing the circle and walking around the stone pit and exiting facing the center as they leave.

    The river that runs through Ha Omekka is a godsend after the Temascal. The water was cold during the day, freezing at night, but I wouldn't have asked for any other temperature. As I sat in the flowing waters I saw fireflies dancing in the night where there were more stars visible than I had ever seen in my entire life. Faith and I were blessed to have been given the opportunity to be a part of this ceremony and love the fact that volunteering here is also an option for us.

    If you have the ability to ever visit, please do. We are experiencing things we had no idea we were going to and all we would like to do is share that with you.

    Thursday, October 7, 2010

    "What you build with your hands, you also build within yourself"

    We are now beginning to get into the swing of things at our camp. The routine of our daily life has begun which consists of waking up around 7:00 a.m., breakfast at 8:00 a.m. and work until about 3:00 p.m. with a small break in between. The work we are doing varies daily because we are broken into groups to tackle separate jobs. What we have completed thus far: constructing a large plastic barrel compost bin for our organic waste, cleared the overgrown areas of the medicinal plant garden, cleared the field for the greenhouse, built the base and waste storage area for the latrine (we are using all materials from on site and moving wheelbarrows full of material to where the latrine will be built). It's very labor intensive, but seeing all the progress is very rewarding.

    We divide into teams to handle the cooking duties also and we have cooked one entire day (everyone enjoyed our spaghetti) and we are going to cook again for everyone tomorrow (Faith's Americana tacos, her specialty). We also had a birthday within our group so Faith baked a pan of brownies to celebrate. We are enjoying the food everyone is preparing too, we eat all our meals outside on a table where the mountaintops surrounding us are visible from every direction.

    We have all gone out as a group to the central part of San Cristobal and have stopped in several coffee shops and interesting hangouts in town. We were given a tour of the inside of the museum today and I was able to participate in a cleansing ceremony performed by Don Victorio, a local curandero (traditional healer). The ritual consisted of lighting rows of thin candles on the floor and him rubbing albaca plant on the saint figures that are in the sacred space created inside the museum. The bundle of plants was also waved over the lit candles (three rows of twelve, all different heights, all white) and then focusing on San Juan and going back and forth touching the blessed figure and myself on particular parts of my body. He was transferring the energy from the saint and himself onto me and distributed the blessings through contact with the bundle of the albaca plant. Afterwards an egg was cracked opened and dropped into a glass of water and examined, there were two visible imperfections that Don Victorio said were released from myself and into the egg. It was very interesting, it was similar to a ritual Faith and I witnessed at the Chamula church a few days back. At that ritual a juvenile male was being treated and a black rooster was rubbed on the affected individual, during the incantation and ritual the chicken was killed and placed down on the church floor. There are different uses of external elements to curing an individual and the rooster, egg, plants, and candles all play significant roles with channeling the energy to the individual receiving the treatment.

    Speaking of roosters, our place is turning into a regular farm! We were given a large brownish rooster as a gift by a Natate staff member. We will keep you posted on what exactly will become of said chicken, buenas noches everyone!

    Monday, October 4, 2010

    This donkey is eating for five

    You never know what might happen upon you while in San Cristobal. As was the case at our new temporary residence, the Mayan Medicine Museum, a lost donkey (seen here) was wandering the streets surrounding the museum aimlessly until someone opened the gates to the museum. The donkey happily accepted the invitation and has spent the last few days at the museum. Did I mention its pregnant? Its been gobbling up the grass like its going out of style.



    So far we have spent one night at the museum with about five other volunteers. Today we had our orientation with the Natate staff and the museum staff, including the president of the Mayan Medicine Museum. Faith and I made fruit salad from fruits we bought at the local market earlier today. The market is very vibrant and colorful full of intoxicating smells and sounds. Many things we did not expect to see were being sold at the market including fruits we haven´t had since our last visit to El Salvador.


    The volunteer camp we are a part of has many projects and activities planned for us. We will be broken into groups daily and given tasks. Tomorrow Faith, myself, and a young German girl named Therese will be the food preparers for the entire group of about 12. We will be waking up at 7:00 a.m. and making breakfast, snacks at 11:00, lunch at 2:00 p.m., and dinner at 5:00. The rest of our group will begin the projects that are planned. We are clearing a field with a metal frame to become a greenhouse, tending to a medicinal plant garden, and building a waterless ecologically sustainable latrine (toilet) that transforms human waste (poop) into usable compost for the plants in an adobe brick structure, the adobe bricks were made from materials on site (clay, grass, sand) from the museum grounds. All of these tasks are to teach us the importance and need for this type of understanding of how we humans need to be better connected with our environment.

    Saturday, October 2, 2010

    A day in the life....

    The weather here is strangely reminiscent of the local mountain towns Faith and I love to visit in Southern California like Big Bear. At night it seems necessary to bundle up, but the morning air is crisp, chilly, and everything has a very slight layer of dew on it. Faith heard a rooster crowing in the early hours, but I was awoken by truck drivers who were peddling their fruits down the streets while advertising over their P.A. system that they have mounted on their roofs.

    The apartment we have is on a semi-main road so cars pass by often, but the foot traffic is more common and can be heard through our street-side windows. We are still adjusting to the differences in personal space and privacy compared to back in California.

    The apartments here all share a communal courtyard which have several tall trees, one of them being a pine tree (we are at 7,000 feet elevation). A small wooden door that can't be any higher than five and a half feet tall is our portal to San Cristobal. We live in a neat part of town that is only a 5-10 minute walk to the busy promenade.

    I decided to show Faith all the amazing places I had the chance to visit during the field study course I took last May/June. We must have walked over five miles throughout the city stopping periodically to peruse an interesting shop, drink a cafe con leche, and eat some freshly made churros. The day was pleasantly warm and we were able to cruise the town wearing comfortable clothing like sandals, shorts, and t-shirts.

    One of the notable encounters we had was at Na Bolom, a local museum dedicated to the Lacandon Maya, and their receptionist who we have been in contact with for weeks. We are hoping to get involved with their volunteer program and so far the interactions have been positive. The grounds at Na Bolom are amazing, they have a beautiful large garden where volunteers stay and give tours of the native plants they have there. They also have a nursery where they donate saplings to local schoolchildren to reinforce the importance of reforestation. We will keep the updates on our status with Na Bolom as they develop. We also met many friendly shop and restaurant owners. So many of the business owners here have a creative way of catering to their clients whether it be with a cozy courtyard with outdoor tables to live music, each have their own unique ambiance. We are excited about our time here, tomorrow we are meeting with the organization, Natate, who we are volunteering with at the Mayan Medicine Museum. Until then!

    Greetings from San Cristobal!


    We have arrived. It wasn't as easy as we thought, but we are now comfortably sitting in our new home, our apartment in San Cristobal. Our journey down south began with a standard flight out of LAX with a layover in Mexico City where we were suppose to catch our connecting flight. The Mexico City airport is vast and to travel to some terminals you must exit the airport, board a bus, and be dropped off at a different area; in our case it was at the Benito Juarez portion of the airport. I was told by some of the staff there that it is a new addition to the airport. The airport has energy saving modern architecture with a ceiling where there are rows of large holes to let the sunlight in. Remarkably mind-boggling if you stare at it for too long.

    In the midst of our awe we were unpleasantly surprised to find out that our connecting flight was canceled. If you haven't been in the airline loop lately the major airline Mexicana recently went bankrupt and our flight was through an affiliate of theirs. We should have paid closer attention to the foreshadowing as we landed into Mexico City where abandoned airbuses marked with Mexicana insignia lay still like dinosaur bones in a natural history museum representing a time past.

    So, to add insult to our injury, we contacted the travel agency we went through (OneTravel.com) who put us on hold as they apparently went to do absolutely nothing to assist us in our predicament. We called back and received the same treatment from different representatives who all wouldn't give us their names and claimed the manager had left for the day. We warn anyone who is considering using this agency, they are unreliable, disorganized, and heartless it seems. Having to get to our destination regardless of reimbursement and cancellation we decided to purchase new tickets through a different airline. So, after a few brutal uncertain hours in the Mexico City airport we were on our way to our new home.

    We arrived at Tuxtla-Guttierez, the capital of Chiapas, late in the night and shared a taxi with a very helpful gentleman. During the course of our hour long taxi ride I discovered that he was a professor at a local university who specializes and works with the local indigenous peoples and the struggles they face. If I haven't emphasized the serendipity I feel when I am here let me go ahead and do that right now. Needless to say, we exchanged contact information and I am sure we will be contacting our new friend often during our stay here.